Saturday, 11 February 2012

Birdblog #1: Hadada Ibis

Uganda has an unbelievable 1061 recognised species of bird (compared to the UK which has 596, and has a similar surface area) and so we thought we'd use the blog to reveal a few of our favourites (i.e. the ones we've managed to catch on camera).

Hadada Ibis

The first is the Hadada Ibis, which announced itself to us on our very first morning in Mbarara. The bird has an extremely loud call (you can hear it here) which was impossible to ignore, even in our comatose jet-lagged state. Since then we've grown used to seeing them foraging for nest-building materials in the grassy areas around our flat, and waking us at 5am with their alarming squawk.

I was sure I'd heard their piercing racket somewhere before, but couldn't work it out until I stumbled on an old YouTube video...

If the Hadada Ibis were a celebrity, it would be Ricky Gervais.

Obstetrics, Ugandan style...


Time for some obstetrics! I am working at Mbarara National Referral Hospital in south-western Uganda. The 600-bed facility is one of four teaching hospitals nationwide and is affiliated to the Mbarara University of Science and Technology. It has a large obstetrics and gynaecology department with 24 doctors and 20 midwives, and is the first place I've worked where the former outnumber the latter. The hospital has approximately 8000 births a year (a similar number to Liverpool Women’s Hospital, my former workplace) but has only three beds on the ‘labour ward’. The literacy rate in Uganda is improving at 73%, but for the less fortunate there is a handy clue at the entrance to the department that they are heading in the right direction for their obstetric and gynaecological services (see photo below).

Dr Kim outside the Obs and Gynae ward

The first few days were certainly eye-opening. There is a general air of chaos on the wards which takes a little getting used to, but I’m beginning to acclimatise to the mayhem. I delivered someone at the foot of a tree on the way to work one morning which is not something I’d experienced in the UK! Quite why the patient was not occupying their bed that was only 50 yards away is anyone’s guess, but I have never left the house without a pair of latex gloves since that occasion.

The staff are incredibly friendly and helpful and I’m getting used to ‘Ugandan Time’. If you add at least an hour to the length of time within which something might be expected to occur, then you’ll be well on your way to getting to grips with the local timekeeping. Unfortunately ‘Ugandan Time' also applies to emergency situations, which has led to some hairy moments. 

The patients themselves tend to be extremely appreciative of any treatment provided, however minor, although this sometimes becomes embarrassing as they try to give you money following their Caesarean section.
 
I’m beginning to formulate tentative plans of what I’m hoping to achieve here. It remains a challenge to work in a clinical environment devoid of guidelines and information whiteboards so I’m hoping to be able to introduce these soon.  The Royal College of Obstetrics and Gynaecology in London have raised charitable donations for Mbarara which I am helping to allocate, so I’m hopeful that basic facilities can be improved. I’m hoping to install curtains around the beds on the antenatal ward to give the women some much needed privacy.  We also need a better way of transferring patients from the operating table to the trolley following surgery as a patient recently fell after her Caesarean section. We use PatSlides routinely in UK and they could be something we could consider introducing here.

Outside of the hospital I’m pleased to report I’ve just attended my first Ugandan aerobics class, which takes place in a nightclub, bizarrely. My anxiety levels were raised as we assembled in the middle of a male sauna, prior to the session, but fortunately this was the place of payment rather than exercise and we were soon able to flee to the dance floor for the exercises to begin. Working out beside fridges full of beer and with people playing pool in the background may seem distracting but it was most enjoyable and I’m guessing this will turn into a regular Wednesday night trip, though whether Dave decides to dig out his sweatbands remains a moot point.

Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Still no sign of Bono


The first thing we noticed about Uganda was how green everything is. During the six hour flight from Qatar we flew over the blank Arabian peninsula and the Ethiopian desert, so it was a relief to see the landscape covered in foliage as we descended over Lake Victoria into Entebbe Airport. The source of the Nile is claimed to be to the east of the airport, but as we drove on into the south-west the landscape remained stoically fertile. Given that it hasn’t rained once in four weeks, the rainy season (March to May) must be particularly Biblical.

Mbarara itself is a relatively wealthy town. It was sacked by advancing Tanzanian troops in 1979 as Idi Amin’s regime came to an end, but has since reinvented itself as an important transport hub between Kampala (the capital) and roads into the south-western provincial towns, as well as Rwanda, Tanzania and DR Congo. It continues to be the fastest-growing settlement in the country, and has a large University, which is where we are based.

If you take a walk along the main street, you will quickly abandon all your pre-conceptions of sub-Saharan Africa and witness a town which has abundant facilities and a population aspirant for the goods and services which westerners take for granted. There are restaurants, mobile phone shops, electronic goods salesmen, banks, a cinema, and a battalion of boda-boda drivers.
Mbarara High Street

The boda-boda is an East African institution which was originally used to transport people across borders without the inconvenience of a passport check (hence boda-boda – ‘border to border’). Today they are small motorbike taxis which charge a pittance for you to sit on the back and be taken to your destination of choice. Helmets are rare and road safety is non-existent. Most of the bikes have religious observations daubed on them, such as ‘Pray to God’ or ‘Allah will save you’; a frank admission that you can only survive their terror with the assistance of higher beings.

There is an atmosphere of near chaos at all times, which can be in turn, amusing, terrifying, annoying and spectacular. Huge arguments will break out amongst large groups of people apropos of nothing, every business has a somnolent guard with a pump-action shotgun (do bakeries really suffer armed robberies?), and traffic junctions are a mêlée of Arc de Triomphe proportions. Imagine a hot Salford and you will be some way to acquiring an accurate vision of Mbarara.

Aside from working our way through the ‘M’ section of our medical dictionary we’ve settled in well, and we hope to upload more posts to give people an idea of what life is like in Mbarara. It seems that more US and European ex-pats are travelling here to work, so we hope this may be of use to them, and to our friends and family who want to see what we’re up to. As doctors, we’ll try to paint a picture of Ugandan healthcare, and as Wazungu how we see the country’s culture and society.