Sunday 20 May 2012

Truck travel


In preparation for Kilimanjaro we decided that organising a 5 day trek would test our fitness whilst enabling us to explore the more rural bits of Uganda.  I must admit I did not think the most gruelling part of our adventure would be getting there.

We had to travel to the village of Buhoma where our walk was due to start.  Although the village is only 176km from Mbarara, the roads are fairly bad so we knew it would take a while.  We planned to get a catch a bus to Kihihi then take a taxi to Buhoma, which we thought would be straightforward.  Famous last words.  Our first mistake was missing the bus, not exactly our fault as we did turn up to the bus station at the time designated, however we should know by now that in Uganda designated times mean nothing.  After this initial hiccough, a very friendly Ugandan kindly offered to help us get a matatu (an overcrowded minibus where the passengers are packed in like sardines) to Kihihi. 

Truck taxi

Once we set off (6 people tightly squeezed into the three seats in our row) we expected a 6-7 hour drive before reaching our destination.  What the kind Ugandan had not mentioned was the fact that half way through our journey, the matatu could no longer continue due to the road surface and we had to switch vehicles into an open truck shared with about 30 people, their luggage and a live chicken.  The truck was definitely an experience, it was amazing to see the camaraderie that develops when you are holding onto one another for dear life in an attempt not to fall out.  I also now realise that no vehicle really needs a roof, just a large tarpaulin for when it rains.  As a female mazungu I was pleased to be given one of the better seats at the back on a pile of large bags of flour, unfortunately Dave got the slightly worse end of the stick.  He had to balance on the side of the truck, which was about 5 inches wide.  This may have been manageable however he made friends with a Ugandan toddler who proceeded to sit/sleep/generally move about on his knee for the five hour trip.  That we both arrived in one piece was a shock in itself.

Despite the seemingly difficult journey, it was actually a very enjoyable experience (most of the time).  In the UK, you could imagine the complaining and arguing likely to ensue in this situation however what really struck me about the travelling was the way everyone was very relaxed, happy and chatty.  We had interesting conversations about Ugandan politics and met a member of the town council who gave us invaluable insights into the area, there was the irritating football banter but I can’t stop Dave doing this in the UK so what chance do I have in Uganda?

When we arrived in Kihini we shared a ride with two of the Ugandans we had met on the truck and even though we were 3 hours late when we eventually got to Buhoma we were greeted by a warm smile and fortunately even warmer food despite the hour. 

It is very easy, particularly when coming to Uganda on holiday, to have a car and driver meet you at the airport, stay in luxurious lodges and see incredible animals and birds, however I think experiencing the culture and the people has been the best part of our trip.  We have never felt so welcome, safe and included. Sometimes at home, people can be reluctant to help each other out, but here it is more important for people to do so and, in our experience, much more likely.

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